Car Audio systems have come a long way, with advances in speaker technology, amplifier design, audio interfaces and multimedia integration. All of these wonderful additions to your system place an extra draw on your vehicle’s charging system and sometimes you are faced with the dilemma of adding some help or living with those wonderful flickering “disco effect” dome lights and dash lights.

Regardless of whether you are adding very efficient Class “D” car amplifiers, always look at your options when it comes to taking this extra stress off your alternator and battery.

The options:

There are a few ways you can beef up the power grid in your vehicle and they all depend on the amount of voltage/ current your system requires. One such method was to add a CAP (Capacitor) which enabled your system to recover somewhat from dynamic peaks in music. CAPS are available from Stinger, HiFonics, Orion, Tsunami and others. In larger systems, the option exists whereby a second vehicle battery is installed along with an upgraded (higher output) alternator and battery isolator. Popular sources for these batteries include Stinger and Interstate. The option that has become increasingly popular is adding a “Power Cell” which is essentially a gel-cell or sealed battery to the audio system.

The Comparison:

In upgrading your vehicle’s power bank, the option of a second battery, isolator and upgraded alternator is the best option, but presents a set of challenges, not to mention it’s by far the most expensive.

Examples of Upgraded Alternators and the Yellow Top Battery from Stinger

Hurdles to overcome here

(unless you’ve got a 70′s muscle car with acres of space under the hood) involve:
1. Finding a location for the secondary battery- which can be the same size as your existing battery- and sometimes larger!
2. Having a custom alternator manufactured that will fit properly.
3. Finding a location for the Isolator.

* Plan on budgeting between $950-$1200 for this type of power upgrade.

The final two options for upgrading your power involve either a CAP or Power Cell. It is here that many folks tend to make the wrong choice when upgrading, despite the fact that both of these options are very close in cost.

When you are deciding between a CAP and Power Cell, look at the PROS and CONS! You’ll find that the Power Cell is actually THE BEST OPTION.

Here’s why:

Both the CAP and Power Cell are placed in the system to assist the vehicle’s power source in providing stable power. (Current/ Voltage) When a dynamic signal is played and peaks are reached, your car system needs to “cover” in order to feed the car amplifier’s power supplies, which are drawing increased amounts of current to keep up with your finger on the volume knob. When the power source cannot keep up with its system demands, amplifiers can shut down (go into protection) or even clip, which can result in damage to your speaker system, regardless of power handling capacity.

Both the CAP and Power Cell remain in a “charged state” during system operation and both provide a means of recovery during peak demand, but the amount of recovery and stability is what sets the Power Cell apart from the CAP. Adding a Power Cell actually enables your system to perform BETTER because it is a larger, more stable source of reserve power AND never becomes a source of resistance in-line. For example, a 600 Watt Power Cell is actually TEN TIMES more powerful than a 100 FARAD Capacitor!
Now we’re talking reserve power AND performance! Some Power Cell manufacturers include Kinetik, Boss Audio and Shuriken.

A CAP will charge in an instant- but will also DISCHARGE in that same instant, which now becomes resistance in your system’s power grid. This actually can (and does) reduce audio system performance.

Ask Chuck about Sound Deadening

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